7-13-2025 MY INSPO: reports from the runways and streets of europe

 per my vogue notifications of last couple weeks, menswear weeks and couture weeks in europe were happening full swing, and streetwear works were documented thoroughly. i report back dutifully with some of my favorist shows and looks.

in milan, giorgio armani's menswear spring/summer 2026 had a gentle color palette with a vibrant purple dominating. slouchy knit shirts, and flowy trousers, with simple crossbody bags., as well as oversized polo tops gave me ideas to dress up boyfriend someday. this is something i could enjoy wearing at work, myself. also, happy belated birthday to mr. armani, who turned 91 two days ago! these looks present a love letter for the 90s, for the coming generations that didn't have the opportunity to experience the american gigolo era of menswear, but with advice from mr armani: "each of us should look for our own signature. maybe we can start by evoking the work of a designer we admire, a little like what happened in the tradition of art in the workshops, with students and masters. but then, through trial and error, it is essential to be able to achieve our own style". mr. armani's collections have that, a signature style and look, whether it's menswear or womenswear. it's not outdated, it's always fresh but timeless, yet it never tries to achieve something more for the sake of novelty or trend. 

 

we're still in milan, and the newest creative director of celine, michael rider, debuted his first collection, spring/summer 2026 ready to wear. the palette was cream, denim, and black. with tasteful camel leather details and gold hardware. impeccably tailored and seemingly fluid material. layering prominent, as well as lots of accessories: glasses, brooch and belt moments. the influence of rider's days at ralph lauren are prominent in this collection (he was polo ralph lauren's creative director prior to this new position), with subtle influence of celine's past directors: phoebe philo (and her tailoring), and hedi slimane (with the skinny chic minimalism). rider's intention with this collection is inspiring the consumers to look for "something that lasts" like a classic coat worn in different ways. this collection ties american preppy with classic parisian chic. i was positively stunned by the number of rings on the models, as rings are my favorite jewelry.  i never go without them (it's so bad i have ring tan lines in the summer). looking forward to this new era of celine. 

turning to the continent, where i enjoyed reviewing berlin fashion week street style. the edgiest of all locations. in my opinion, it takes the throne from nyc, and i think tokyo is up there with the best androgynous street looks, but its minimalism tones it down in comparison to berlin.

graffiti, graphic designs, frays and asymmetry. micro bangs, and pin straight hairdo's. the palette stays metal, dark, black, and mostly grayscale, but lack of color is compensated with the materials, fabric and styling. 

keeping up with street style, just traveling back to the fashion capital, and starstruck paris. classic silhouettes, crisp button downs, and a hint of surrealism thanks to daniel roseberry's schaiparelli. when in doubt, a good white blouse can be a safe choice for the street style cameras. 

finally, an incredible show was presented in paris, glenn martens took over maison margiela and presented the fall/winter 2025 couture show. wherever glenn martens is at, artistry follows. i loved his work at diesel, and even more at jean paul gaultier. and i think he's an excellent replacement for the controversial john galliano at margiela. hidden faces, as a tradition throughout multiple margiela shows, newer and older, the material is stunning. off-white jersey dresses, like haunting ghosts, or tulle that resembles biblically accurate angels when you really take time looking at it. the material looked sustainable, and one-third of this collection was in fact upcycled, according to the vogue coverage. according to martens, the inspiration for this collection comes from storytelling of a decaying home.